Buddachen

Published May 5, 2010 at 9:02 p.m.
...Jae’s grill is reborn with pan-Asian zen...
The Web site says “modern Asian bistro” and the other description they’ve put out is “ultra trendy modern Asian cuisine.”

The Web site says “modern Asian bistro” and the other description they’ve put out is “ultra trendy modern Asian cuisine.” There was also some early talk about “New York–style Chinese food.” I don’t get any of this from a visit to Buddachen. I get a makeover on Jae’s Grill with a lot of sushi and a smattering of pan-Asian dishes, mostly Chinese, by former Jae’s partner Shun Li Chen. (Jae’s owner Jae Chung was one of the first Asian-American restaurateurs to recognize the importance of chocolate in barbarian cultures of the West; Buddachen’s owner, Mr. Chen, has not neglected that, either.) Nothing has the Korean spice and fusion verve of the original South End Jae’s, but there is quite a lot of good eating at attractive price points, and the right sorts of sake and Japanese beer.

The tables, still black granite (but now with white tufted-leather seating) are set for fusion, with both chopsticks and a napkin roll of knife, fork, and spoon. Plenty of weaponry, so let’s get to it!

We focused on Chinese and Japanese dishes, and told our server to bring them as they came out. First up was seaweed salad ($6). This dish doesn’t vary a lot from restaurant to restaurant, but I thought it was a hefty portion, nice and fresh, with a little hijiki mixed in for texture. Shu mai ($7) are Japanese-style neatly wrapped ground shrimp that look like scallops. This kitchen sends them out in a steel steamer, but the novel touch is a mayonnaise-based dip with a little sneaky heat.

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