La Galleria 33

Published April 28, 2010 at 9:37 p.m.
...A new, old-school-style addition to the city’s longest-thriving dining district...
As you go deeper into the North End on Salem Street, the pretense drops toward the levels of old, pre-gentrification “Little Italy.”

La Galleria 33 125 Salem Street, Boston 617.723.7233   Open daily, 4–11 pm AE, DI, MC, VI Beer and wine Validated discount parking in Parcel 7 garage Access up two steps from sidewalk level

As you go deeper into the North End on Salem Street, the pretense drops toward the levels of old, pre-gentrification “Little Italy.” La Galleria 33 is thus a rather old-fashioned red-sauce restaurant owned by two sisters whose family has run various eateries since the mid 1960s. This spot is modern in some ways, but old school enough, especially on prices — so long as one is wary of the daily specials.

We started with really good bread and extra-virgin olive oil, doctored with herbs and filled with an assortment of olives. (Olives in olive oil is the new table setter in the North End.) Then we moved on to the very modern broccoli or artichoke dorati appetizer ($8.95), eggy fritters of (our choice) broccoli, fresh fried without excess grease. Two orders of this take care of any vegetarians in the group that don’t like eggplant. (An eggplant report is coming up right after the appetizers.)

Italian antipasto ($16.95) has apparently evolved from a flat plate to a bowl of salad. The good news is that the mozzarella is now fresh, and that the salami and provolone are as good as they’ve always been. A caprese salad ($13.95) was a game try on an April visit, but tomatoes will be better in July. We could, at this price, use more shredded basil and somewhat softer mozzarella.

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